The Icelandic Highlands Travel Guide

The Icelandic Highlands cover around 40,000 square kilometres—roughly 40% of the island—but are almost entirely uninhabited. It’s a place of raw wilderness, carved by glaciers, volcanoes, and time. Unlike the coast, which has settlements and infrastructure, the Highlands offer dramatic solitude: black deserts, steaming geothermal valleys, glacier-fed rivers, and surreal mountain ranges.

The Highlands are only accessible during the short summer window, usually from mid-June to early September, when the interior roads (designated F-roads) are open. These roads are unpaved, often include river crossings, and absolutely require a 4×4 vehicle. If you don’t have one, you can still reach some areas using specialised Highland buses or guided super jeep tours.

Expect unpredictable weather—snow, sun, rain, and fog can happen in a single day. Mobile signal is patchy at best. This is not the place to just wing it—you need to plan carefully, bring supplies, and be ready for adventure.

History of the Icelandic Highlands

The Highlands have always marked the edge of Icelandic settlement. This vast, uninhabited interior was long seen as a place of danger, mystery, and survival. In medieval Iceland, the Highlands weren’t just remote—they were feared. The landscape is marked by shifting sands, lava fields, glaciers, and volcanic activity. Travelling through the region was risky, and few had reason to linger unless they had no choice.

Outlaws and Isolation

One of the more fascinating chapters in Highland history is its connection to outlaws, or útilegumenn. In Iceland’s early legal system, serious crimes like murder or repeated theft could lead to a sentence of outlawry—meaning the convicted person was banished from society and could legally be killed if found.

The Highlands became a natural refuge for these outcasts. While life was brutal, it was often safer than facing revenge in the settled regions. The best-known outlaw is Fjalla-Eyvindur (Eyvindur of the Mountains), who lived in the 18th century. After being outlawed, he and his wife Halla survived for years in various Highland locations, including the geothermal area near Herðubreiðarlindir and the highlands around Sprengisandur. Their story has since become part of Icelandic folklore and was even turned into a play and film.

Eyewitness reports and sagas tell of other outlaw groups living in mountain caves and remote valleys, stealing from farms when necessary. These tales blend survivalism with Iceland’s harsh environment, highlighting how difficult—and how hidden—life in the Highlands could be.

Sprengisandur: A Route Through Desolation

Sprengisandur, the highland desert that cuts between the glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull, has long been a symbol of isolation. Historically, it was used as a route between the north and south, but it came with real danger. The name itself comes from the Icelandic verb sprengja, meaning “to burst,” suggesting that horses and travellers were pushed to their limits crossing this harsh terrain.

Sprengisandur was also known as a hiding place for outlaws, including Fjalla-Eyvindur. It was too barren to settle but too vast to control, making it perfect for those avoiding society. Today, the F26 road follows the old route across the sands. It feels remote and desolate in summer, with no towns, trees, or real shelter—just endless black earth and distant ice caps.

20th-Century Development and Controversy

In the 20th century, Iceland began to develop the Highlands for hydroelectric and geothermal power. The most controversial example is the Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant, completed in 2007. This project dammed several glacial rivers, flooded parts of the Highlands near the Jökulsá á Dal river, and altered a previously untouched ecosystem.

The backlash was immediate, both in Iceland and abroad. Environmentalists, artists, and even international celebrities criticised the destruction of wilderness for aluminium smelting. The protests around Kárahnjúkar became a turning point in Iceland’s environmental movement.

Conservation and the Future

Today, large parts of the Highlands are under protection, including areas within Vatnajökull National Park. There is also an ongoing national conversation about the creation of a Highlands National Park, which would unite various protected areas into a single, massive conservation zone—one of the largest in Europe.

The goal is to preserve what remains of the Highlands’ raw nature, safeguard ecosystems, and limit industrial expansion. At the same time, there’s interest in making the region more accessible for responsible tourism, with better trails, huts, and visitor education.

The Highlands have shifted from a place of fear and exile to one of national pride and ecological importance—but they still demand respect, just as they always have.

Museums and Visitor Centres

While the Icelandic Highlands are mostly devoid of buildings and settlements, several visitor centres and cultural sites on the fringes of the region provide valuable insight into the landscape, history, and ecology. These places act as gateways—helping travellers understand the forces that shaped the interior before heading in.

1. Skálholt Museum and Historic Site

📍 South Iceland, near Flúðir – Golden Circle area

Although not technically inside the Highlands, Skálholt is a natural stop for travellers entering the interior from the south via Kjölur (F35) or Landmannalaugar routes. Skálholt was Iceland’s most important religious and educational centre for centuries.

What to see:

• Skálholt Cathedral: A modern church built on the historic site, featuring striking stained glass, murals, and a crypt with stone sarcophagi.
  
• Skálholtsskóli: A cultural centre with exhibitions on Icelandic Christianity, manuscript history, and the legacy of bishops who shaped medieval Iceland.
  
• Archaeological museum: Displays unearthed artefacts, including religious relics and items from early Christian burial sites.
  
• Concerts and lectures: Held regularly during summer, often featuring Icelandic choral music and talks on history or folklore.
  

Why it matters:

Skálholt gives essential context for understanding Iceland’s early governance and belief systems—especially relevant before venturing into the once-feared Highlands, which were often seen as spiritual or cursed.

2. Snæfellsstofa Visitor Centre (Vatnajökull National Park)

📍 Laugarfell, Eastern Highlands, near Snæfell mountain

Snæfellsstofa is one of the most informative and well-equipped visitor centres tied to the Highland region. It’s located near the eastern edge of the Highlands, serving as a gateway to the Snæfell area and parts of Vatnajökull National Park.

What to see:

• Geology exhibits: Covers the tectonic forces that shaped the Highlands, with models of glaciers, volcanoes, and fissures.
  
• Wildlife displays: Information on local animals like reindeer (introduced from Norway in the 18th century), Arctic foxes, and bird species that nest in the Highlands.
  
• Flora and ecosystems: Descriptions of mosses, alpine flowers, and hardy plants found in lava fields and highland valleys.
  
• Interactive touchscreens: Great for children and curious adults—showing live weather, volcanic activity, and park alerts.
  
• Hiking and ranger advice: Staff offer up-to-date trail conditions, safety tips, and backcountry travel guidance.
  

Why it matters:

Snæfellsstofa bridges the gap between nature and knowledge. The exhibits give much-needed context on how life survives in Iceland’s most extreme environments.

3. Þórsmörk Volcano Huts Visitor Info Area

📍 Þórsmörk Valley, between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers

Deep in the southern Highlands, Þórsmörk is one of the few places within the interior that offers semi-permanent facilities, thanks to its sheltered valley location. The Volcano Huts are a mix of accommodation, restaurant, and informal visitor hub.

What to see:

• Interpretive displays: Storyboards explaining the geology and volcanic history of the area, particularly the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption, which occurred just nearby and disrupted global air travel.
  
• Eyjafjallajökull model: A tactile representation of the glacier and the volcano beneath.
  
• Hiking trail maps: Visuals of the Laugavegur Trail, Fimmvörðuháls pass, and nearby short walks.
  
• Glacial and volcanic timeline: Posters explaining the formation of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and rivers.
  

Why it matters:

Þórsmörk is a rare spot within the Highlands that merges natural beauty with storytelling. The Volcano Huts provide both practical resources and a sense of place, particularly for those arriving on foot via long-distance trails.

Must-Visit Natural Wonders

The Icelandic Highlands offer some of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in the country—many of which feel untouched and otherworldly. Here are five standout places that should be high on any travel itinerary.

1. Landmannalaugar

📍 Fjallabak Nature Reserve – Southern Highlands

Landmannalaugar is often the first name when people talk about the Highlands—and with good reason. This colourful geothermal valley sits in the heart of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, surrounded by lava fields, rivers, and dramatic rhyolite mountains. It’s one of the most accessible parts of the Highlands, reachable by high-clearance 4×4 vehicles via rough F-roads like F208 and F225.

Though remote, Landmannalaugar is far from empty in summer. A large campsite with basic facilities becomes a seasonal hub for hikers, photographers, and travellers looking to experience the wild beauty of the Icelandic interior. It’s also the starting point for the Laugavegur Trail, Iceland’s most famous multi-day hike. Whether you come for a few hours or several days, this spot offers a dramatic introduction to the Highlands’ volcanic landscape.

Highlights:

• Rhyolite mountains: Due to their unique mineral composition, these multicoloured mountains shimmer in hues of red, pink, yellow, and green.
  
• Laugahraun lava field: A dark, moss-covered field formed by an eruption in 1477, now crisscrossed by hiking trails.
  
• Natural hot spring: Located near the campsite, this warm pool is fed by a hot and cold stream—perfect for a post-hike soak.
  
• Laugavegur Trail: A multi-day trek (typically 3–4 days) connecting Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk. One of Iceland’s most iconic hikes.
  

Recommended short hikes:

• Bláhnúkur (“Blue Peak”): A moderately challenging hike up a bluish volcanic cone offering panoramic views over the colourful mountains.
  
• Brennisteinsalda: This sulphur-streaked mountain bubbles with geothermal energy and emits constant steam, giving it a dramatic and slightly eerie atmosphere.
  
• Ljótipollur crater: A striking red crater lake just a short drive or long walk from the base camp.
  

2. Askja and Víti Crater

📍 Central Highlands – Dyngjufjöll mountains

Deep in the central Highlands, Askja is a vast volcanic caldera tucked within the Dyngjufjöll mountain range. It lies inside the Ódáðahraun lava field, one of the largest and most desolate expanses of lava in Iceland, created by repeated eruptions over thousands of years. The journey to Askja is a serious undertaking—hours of driving on F-roads that cross rivers and wind through remote terrain—but reaching it feels like stepping onto another planet.

Askja is part of Iceland’s living volcanic system and was active as recently as the 20th century. Its stark landscape—dark sands, snow patches, and crater lakes—has fascinated scientists and explorers for decades. In the 1960s, NASA used this area to train Apollo astronauts, believing it was the closest thing to a lunar landscape on Earth. It’s an unmatched destination for complete remoteness and geological extremes.

Highlights:

• Askja caldera: A powerful eruption in 1875 formed this caldera, which is surrounded by steep volcanic ridges and filled with icy water.
  
• Víti crater: A smaller explosion crater next to Askja, containing a milky blue geothermal lake that stays warm year-round. Many visitors take a dip, though the smell of sulphur is strong and footing can be slippery.
  
• Lake Öskjuvatn: Over 200 metres deep, it’s one of Iceland’s deepest lakes. Depending on the season, you can walk along its edge, surrounded by volcanic ash and snowfields.
  

Did you know?

NASA sent astronauts here in the 1960s to train for lunar conditions. The combination of black sand, craters, and volcanic terrain closely resembles the Moon’s surface.

3. Hveradalir (Kerlingarfjöll)

📍 Kjölur Route – Central Highlands

Hveradalir, or “The Valleys of Hot Springs,” is a geothermal wonderland nestled within the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range, just off the Kjölur (F35) highland route. The area is still relatively under the radar compared to places like Landmannalaugar, but it’s gaining popularity fast thanks to its eye-popping colours, bubbling vents, and accessibility. Despite being in the Highlands, it’s relatively easy to reach with a good 4×4 and doesn’t require river crossings.

Kerlingarfjöll is a chain of rhyolite mountains shaped by geothermal forces and centuries of volcanic activity. The entire area was once a potential site for a large-scale geothermal power station, but it’s now protected as part of a nature reserve. Hveradalir sits in the heart of it all, where steam rises from countless vents and hiking trails weave between rust-red hills and snow patches. It’s a surreal, unforgettable spot.

Highlights:

• Steaming vents and boiling mud pots: The whole area bubbles with geothermal heat. The hills are colourful and streaked with minerals in oranges, reds, yellows, and greens.
  
• Snow meets steam: Even in midsummer, patches of snow lie next to smoking vents, creating a surreal visual contrast.
  
• Well-maintained hiking trails: Ranging from easy 1–2 hour loops to full-day hikes deeper into the range. Trails are clearly marked and offer breathtaking views.
  

Nearby facilities:

• Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort: Offers accommodation, food, and visitor services. A good base for exploring the area, especially if you’re not camping.
  

4. Þórsmörk Valley

📍 South Highlands – between glaciers

Þórsmörk (Thórsmörk), named after the Norse god Thor, is a highland valley like no other—lush, green, and tucked between three massive glaciers: Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull. Its unique microclimate, protected by surrounding mountains, allows vegetation to flourish where you’d least expect it. Low birch forests, mossy hills, and glacier-fed rivers fill the landscape, dramatically contrasting the black deserts surrounding it.

It’s a paradise for hikers, offering everything from short walks to strenuous glacier treks. Þórsmörk also serves as the endpoint for the Laugavegur Trail and the starting point for the Fimmvörðuháls hike to Skógar. Despite being in the Highlands, it feels more welcoming and alive than many other interior destinations. Getting here is no small feat—it involves crossing deep rivers and rough terrain, typically by Highland bus or super jeep.

Highlights:

• Birch forests and wildflowers: Þórsmörk is unusually lush compared to its surroundings. It’s a hotspot for plant life, especially in early summer.
  
• Glacier views: Towering ice caps like Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull ring the valley, visible from many trails.
  
• Fimmvörðuháls Trail: A demanding day hike connecting Þórsmörk to Skógar, passing between glaciers and by new volcanic craters formed in 2010.
  
• Shorter trails: Easy walks to Stakkholtsgjá canyon, Valahnúkur viewpoint, and Slyppugil valley start right from the Volcano Huts.
  

Getting there:

Due to river crossings and rough roads, access is only possible by super jeep or specially adapted Highland bus. Departures are usually from Seljalandsfoss or Hvolsvöllur.

5. Sprengisandur Route

📍 F26 – Central Highlands

Sprengisandur is not a single destination, but a legendary highland route that cuts through the vast, inhospitable core of Iceland. Running between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull, it connects the north and south via F26, Iceland’s longest F-road. The name itself—Sprengisandur—comes from the Icelandic word sprengja, meaning “to burst,” a nod to how demanding the journey is for both horses and humans. It was once one of the most feared routes in Iceland, known for its harsh terrain and frequent storms.

For centuries, this barren stretch was avoided unless absolutely necessary. It was used by outlaws, messengers, and herders, often in secrecy or desperation. Even today, it remains a challenging drive through gravel plains, glacial rivers, and desolate volcanic deserts. There are no major sights or services—just vast silence and a haunting sense of isolation. Driving Sprengisandur is more about the journey than the destination, offering a true sense of the Highlands’ scale and emptiness.

Highlights:

• Vast black sand plains: The terrain is bleak but beautiful. Volcanic ash, glacial rivers, and haunting silence stretch for hours in every direction.
  
• Historic route: Once used by outlaws and adventurous travellers moving between the north and south. It’s said to have inspired the folk song Á Sprengisandi, evoking the tension and solitude of crossing the Highlands.
  
• Glacial backdrop: The road cuts between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull, and on a clear day, you can see ice caps in the distance.
  

Know before you go:

• The route is very remote with no services.
  
• Only for experienced drivers with high-clearance 4×4 vehicles.
  
• Best driven as part of a loop or multi-day Highlands road trip with thorough preparation.

Best Tours and Activities in The Icelandic Highlands

Þórsmörk Super Jeep Tour

For those looking to experience the dramatic landscapes of Þórsmörk without hiking for days, a super jeep tour is an excellent option. Þórsmörk is a remote valley tucked between three glaciers—Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull—and is only accessible by crossing rough terrain and unbridged rivers, making super jeeps the ideal transport.

One of the highlights along the route is Gígjökull, a glacial tongue where powerful floods burst forth during the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. Local guides share insight into the event, often with stories and details that don’t appear in guidebooks—adding a personal layer to the experience.

The tour typically includes the chance for short hikes, offering time to stretch your legs and take in the landscape from within. It’s a great way to feel the scale and raw energy of the Highlands without committing to a multi-day trek.

Landmannalaugar and the Valley of Tears

A guided day tour to Landmannalaugar is one of the best ways to experience the Highlands without hiking for days or driving challenging F-roads yourself. Located deep within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, Landmannalaugar is known for its geothermal activity, obsidian lava fields, and the surreal colours of its rhyolite mountains.

This tour includes roughly three hours in the area, with a guided hike to Brennisteinsalda, also known as the Sulphur Wave. The trail winds through Laugahraun, a lava field formed during an eruption in 1477. Sharp-edged black obsidian covers much of the path—a dramatic contrast to the colourful peaks around you. Brennisteinsalda showcases the full palette of the Highlands: reds, yellows, greens, and blues caused by sulphur, iron, and volcanic minerals.

If you’d rather explore independently, you’re welcome to choose a different route or take it slow and relax in the natural geothermal pool near the huts—just don’t forget your swimsuit and towel.

Tour Stops and Highlights Include:

• Hjálparfoss
  A twin waterfall surrounded by jagged basalt columns, Hjálparfoss sits in a lush area historically a relief point for travellers crossing the barren Sprengisandur route. It provided vital grazing land for horses after long, difficult journeys through the Highlands.
• Sigöldugljúfur (The Valley of Tears)
  This lesser-known gem features a series of waterfalls tumbling into a narrow canyon. Bright blue water contrasts against dark cliffs and green moss, and the name adds an air of melancholy, but the beauty is unforgettable.

Whether hiking to a geothermal peak, soaking in a natural hot spring, or standing at the edge of a remote canyon, this tour delivers an excellent overview of the natural diversity found in the southern Highlands—without needing to camp or trek for days.

Þórsmörk Hike Day Tour

If you’re keen to explore the Highlands on foot without committing to a full multi-day trek, the Þórsmörk Hike Day Tour is a brilliant option. This guided experience takes you deep into the Þórsmörk Nature Reserve, one of Iceland’s most beloved hiking areas. Set between three glaciers—Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull—Þórsmörk is a place of dramatic contrasts: winding canyons, birch forests, panoramic ridges, and hidden waterfalls.

The tour embraces slow travel, focusing on personal experience and small groups. Local guides lead the way, choosing routes based on the day’s weather and sharing stories and lesser-known spots along the way. Trails usually cover between 6 and 12 km, with hikes lasting 3 to 4 hours and elevation gains of up to 800 metres.

Example hiking routes include:

• Tindfjallahringur Loop
  An 8–12 km circular route featuring birch groves, mountain ridgelines, and sweeping views of surrounding glaciers.
• Hvannárgil Canyon Trail
  A 6–8 km hike through a deep canyon carved by glacial meltwater, with peaceful stretches along riverbeds and elevated lookouts.
• Hestagötur Trail
  A 9 km path following old sheep routes through dense forest and rocky highland terrain, offering striking glacier perspectives.

This tour is ideal for those who want to immerse themselves in Icelandic nature without rushing. You don’t need prior hiking experience, but a moderate fitness level is essential—the terrain can be uneven, and the route will include uphill climbs and descents.

Kerlingarfjöll Highland Tour

Travellers who want to experience Iceland’s geothermal and geological extremes will find the Kerlingarfjöll Highland Tour a perfect choice. Nestled deep in the central Highlands, Kerlingarfjöll showcases colourful rhyolite mountains, steaming hot springs, and snow-dusted ridges that contrast sharply to the surrounding black sand deserts.It’s one of the most visually striking areas in the entire country, and this tour gives you a front-row seat to its surreal beauty.

The tour includes visiting Hveravellir, a geothermal field and protected nature reserve along the Kjölur (F35) route, between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. Here, you’ll find steaming fumaroles, bubbling pools, and the rare chance to soak in a naturally heated pool that blends hot and cold water sources—ideal for a relaxing break amid rugged wilderness.

Kerlingarfjöll offers incredible photo opportunities and short walks or more demanding hikes, depending on your preference. The area is a maze of ravines, mineral-streaked hillsides, and warm streams surrounded by snowfields, even in summer. Whether walking through the steamy Hveradalir valley or following a trail along the ridgelines, every direction looks like a different planet.

This tour is perfect for those who want a mix of scenic driving, light hiking, and the chance to soak in geothermal waters—without venturing too far off the grid.

Places to Eat and Drink in the Icelandic Highlands

The Icelandic Highlands are remote, rugged, and largely uninhabited, which means you won’t find towns, traditional restaurants, or even petrol stations. That said, during the summer months (June–September), a few mountain huts, campsites, and lodges open to serve hikers and travellers. While the food options are simple, they’re often hearty and satisfying after a long day outdoors.

1. Hveradalir Mountain Resort – Kerlingarfjöll

Located near the geothermal area of Hveradalir, this mountain resort is one of the more developed food stops in the Highlands. It operates during summer and offers:

• Hot meals: Meat dishes, soups, vegetarian options, and breakfast.
• Packed lunches: Ideal for hikers heading out for the day.
• Simple accommodation: Beds in shared rooms, with access to showers and dining areas.
• Cosy indoor café: A rare comfort in the middle of the Highlands, especially welcome on cold or rainy days.

2. Landmannalaugar Hut

Situated at the base of Landmannalaugar’s trail network, this hut serves as the central base for hikers.

• Basic food items available: Instant noodles, energy bars, biscuits, canned soups, and sometimes hot drinks or simple meals.
• Camping facilities: A large campsite next to the hut offers gas stoves for self-catering. Bring your own food for variety.
• Nearby hot spring: Great for a soak after dinner.

3. Þórsmörk Volcano Huts

Probably the most well-equipped food stop in the Highlands, the Volcano Huts in Þórsmörk offer:

• A full-service café: Serving warm meals, breakfast, soups, and baked goods.
• Drinks: Beer, wine, and soft drinks available for purchase.
• Vegetarian and vegan options: Depending on the day.
• Indoor dining space: One of the few places where you can eat comfortably under a roof.

This is a great place to recharge—especially for those arriving after long hikes like the Laugavegur or Fimmvörðuháls trails.

4. Huts on the Laugavegur Trail (e.g. Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur)

These huts are not food providers, but:

• They have cooking facilities for travellers carrying their own supplies (camp stoves, pots, utensils, often provided).
• You must bring your own food, unless you’re on a guided trek where meals are included.
• Some huts may offer very limited snacks (such as chocolate or energy bars), but you can’t rely on this.

If you plan to do the Laugavegur Trail independently, prepare and pack your food carefully in advance. Lightweight, high-calorie options like dried pasta, rice, instant soups, and energy snacks are ideal.

Tips for Travelling the Highlands

The Highlands demand planning, preparation, and respect. This is not a part of Iceland you can enter casually. Here are some essential tips to help you travel safely and responsibly:

1. Drive a proper 4×4 vehicle

• F-roads are unpaved and often very rough.
• Many routes include unbridged river crossings.
• Standard rental cars are not allowed on these roads and are not insured if used on them.

2. Check weather and road conditions daily

• Weather changes fast—sunshine can turn to snow in minutes.
• Use:
  • safetravel.is for safety alerts and emergency info
  • road.is for real-time road conditions and closures

3. Fuel up and stock up before you enter

• There are no petrol stations in the Highlands.
• Always start with a full tank and extra food, water, and warm clothing.
• Even common snacks and basics become hard to come by once you’re in.

4. Respect the landscape

• Stay on marked roads and trails—off-roading is illegal and damaging.
• Pack out all rubbish, including food waste and tissue.
• Do not stack rocks or disturb the natural terrain.

5. Book huts and campsites early

• Highland huts are often fully booked weeks in advance in summer.
• Many require online booking through Ferðafélag Íslands (FI) or specific tour operators.
• Wild camping is discouraged or prohibited in many areas—use designated sites.

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